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The original Cafe
Cesar was across the street and about a block away from
the present Restaurant Caesar, towards the U.S. border
on Avenida Revolution, next to the ( now long gone)
Hotel Commercial. The location is now a store specializing in
Art and Folk Art, operated by Elena Glez.
Cesar Cardini and his
brother had both been World War I Italian Fighter Pilots. They
moved to San Diego and opened Cafe Cesar across the
border in Tijuana, Mexico in 1924. At that time, the Hotel
Commercial boasted that it had the largest bar in the world.
Sloppy Joe's in Havanna made the same claim.
In 1924 the United States did not
enjoy the open nightlife that it does now. Prohibition began
when the Volstead Act, and the 18th Amendment, became
effective in 1919. Tijuana, just across the border from San
Diego, offered beautiful avenues filled with shopping
gallerias, elegant restaurants, nightclubs, and hotels, and
fabulous attractions such as the Jai Alai Palace, the Aquas
Caliente Racetrack, and bullfights with the world's greatest
toreadors and matadors, many of whom made Cesar's a
regular spot to visit. Royalty, Movie stars and other
celebrities followed, often arriving in huge limousines
roaring down from the U.S. It is much the same now, but
without the casinos.
Cesar's Cafe became a great
success, but was small. The Cardinis accepted a proposal by
the Arkadians, who were from Eastern Europe, to occupy an
enormous space in their new, ultra luxurious and huge hotel.
The hotel would be named Caesar's and the Restaurant Caesar
would take up much of the first floor on the Avenida
Revolution side (it went back a block and had various stores,
a big garage, and other hotel facilities on the first floor.
The main lobby and a few stores were, and are on Avenida
Revolution.
So it was for many years. Even in
the 1980s I could walk in, across the patio cafe and into the
quiet darkness of the bar, first going through a glass
vestibule, and suddenly step back into the 30s and 40s. There
was a large oil painting of a beautiful Mexican woman over the
bar. A Margarita was 75 cents American, and the Caesar Salad,
prepared at your table, was $4. It's gone up a few bucks since
the eighties, but not much.
It broke my heart when I walked in
one day and saw that the main dining room had been converted
to an American fast food franchise-- it was like a knife to
the heart! Walking into the old bar, I saw that it had been
transformed to a nightmarish version of a 'sports bar' with
rows of color tvs above a newly re-decorated bar.
The bar has been somewhat restored
to a state of dignity, but the fast food joint still intrudes.
The Cardinis sold out many years ago but the present owners do
their best to maintain the high standards of a first class
restaurant. They have many businesses in Tijuana and make
special efforts with Caesar's. The Arkadian family still owns
and operates the hotel.
It was at the original Cafe
Cesar, down the street, that Cesar Cardini invented his
famous salad, apparently in a moment of desperation to
throw something together for a guest from whatever he had
handy when his store of food was limited. Originally called
'Aviator Salad', it became known to guests of the restaurant
as 'Cesar's Salad' because it was usually prepared tableside
by Cesar himself.
The Jai Alai Palace, just a few
buildings away block away from Hotel Caesar and Restaurant
Caesar.
Legends: 1920s: Bullfighters, Silent Film stars,
including Chaplain, Keeton, Lloyd, Douglas Fairbanks and Mary
Pickford (from their place north of San Diego, now known as
Fairbanks Ranch), Crown Prince Edward, Cantinflas, Lindbergh.
One legend has Lindbergh laughing over his salad as he and his
friends from Ryan Aircraft dreamed up a way to conceal an
extra pilot in The Spirit of St. Louis. This is apparently why
he kept referring to flight decisions "We" made, the morning
after he landed, and why there was 'another' American pilot
pulled from the plane and briefly paraded down the runway on
the shoulders of the Parisians.
1930s: nazis, Bing Crosby and Jimmy Durante. Did they
dream up their idea for the Del Mar Race Track over a Caesar
Salad? It would mean that people could take the train down
from L.A. and get off in Del Mar. No need for an automobile
and a trip across the border. 1940s: Nazis again, doing
business in a neutral Mexico, immigrants looking for a way to
get just a few miles north. Was Caesar's the inspiration for
Rick's Cafe? It looks like it, and had the more important
elements of a sophisticated restaurant with a Spanish
architectural scheme, Nazia, and people from all over scheming
to go to America. Manyt movie stars such as Johnny
Weismuller, Dolores Del Rio, Clark Gable and Carole Lombard
seemed to enjoy trips not only to Tijuana but to the more
glamorous casino in Ensenada.. 1950s: Marilyn Monroe and
Joe DiMaggio. Sixties and beyond-- restaurant does not reveal
the names of guests who are still living.
The eighties. Old style ruined by fast food franchise.
Nineties, and some return to dignity, with back part opened as
a gentlemen's club.
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